Tuesday, August 31, 2010

August Ends

Out of 95 kids presently enrolled in Roldih, 93 came today -- the last day of the month. But attendance on the whole has not been very good throughout the month. I mentioned this to Bhola and so he is now summoning the parents of all the children who missed more than 3 days of classes in August. A "talk" with the parents may do the trick.

I also wonder if the drop in attendance also has anything to do with the fact that we are no longer giving "incentives" (soaps, pencils, etc) on a weekly or monthly basis. One of the reasons why we stopped giving weekly and monthly "prizes" for attendance because we can't afford it. The other main reason is that we didn't want that to become the main reason for children to come to school. I did get to hear that some sick children were forces to come to school by their parents so that they wouldn't miss out on receiving the shampoo sachets that we gave out every week! Apparently, the mothers were more interested in the shampoo sachet than the education of the children.

This is the last week for the volunteers. They'll be leaving on Saturday. Hopefully, I'll make it to Roldih before they leave.  I'm looking forward to the long ride. And hopefully this time I'll get to rest a bit before I have to return to Bolpur. Bhola's wife is doing OK. She' being treated for jaundice and is apparently responding well. Bhola's father, by the way, knows about herbal medicines that are a "sure cure" for jaundice.

It rained a lot on Bolpur yesterday. But today it's sunny, dry and hot. I hope it will be cloudy tomorrow so that my guests have a pleasant ride and it won't be uncomfortable if they wish to go sightseeing somewhere. Unfortunately, tomorrow is Wednesday and the university and all the shops will be closed. Maybe they'll just wish to rest after the long drive.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

To Give Or Not To Give?

Today is Sunday. In Bolpur it's a strange day. Some schools, institutions, shops and establishments are closed. Some others are open. The same thing happens on Wednesdays. For an "outsider" like me, it is very confusing and at times, very inconvenient.

It's still early in the day and I am already bored with it. I've tried reading, watching tv, surfing the net... but I still feel bored. So I thought I'd write a few lines in Dakshinayan Diary to see if it can change my mood!

I wish it were as convenient to get to Roldih as it is to Kolkata. I would love to talk to people face to face and explain something rather than doing it over the phone. There's so much scope for misunderstanding when you do that. Worst is not being able too gauge the other person's reaction to what you are saying!

This morning Bhola told me that the volunteers were planning to buy copys and pencils to distribute among the school children. Apparently, Tom and Roisin did it and so they too wanted to do something similar. So I had to call up and explain over the phone to Fran (the one who was on the phone) why I disapprove of this. It's a bit hard to explain, but the main reason is not wanting to encourage dependence and/or expectation.

Not all volunteers want to or can afford to give the children gifts. So what happens? The children feel that the "gift-giving" volunteer is a good one and the one who did not give them anything was "not nice". This has happened in the distant past and hence, I put a stop to the giving of gifts. I may have relaxed this rule a bit now -- the volunteers can give the project gifts which will be eventually given to the children. We use the gits as "motivational tools" at times. Soaps and copies and pencils are given out for regular attendance. Even material for uniforms were distributed to those who "passed the exam and got promoted". The children are always informed about the "source" of the gift. But it's very, very rarely that the "giver" is allowed to distribute the gifts themselves.

This has caused a lot of "heart burns" in the past and no dount will continue to be a debatable point in the future too. I'm quite ambivalent about this myself. Sometimes I feel, what's the harm? Let someone give a gift if they feel like it. But then, I start worrying about the children starting to EXPECT gifts from visitors. It's natural. Children "expect" visitors to bring them gifts -- chocolates, toys, etc... and our children at Roldih and Cheo are no different! But what if the visitor can't afford it or doesn't with to give gifts?

Bhola has gone to Godda to attend a Patanjali meeting. He is a member, I believe. I can't help feeling that he should perhaps have stayed on the project today (considering he's been absent quite often lately) and seen to the cleaning up of the project. If he's going to be an absentee coordinator, I could run the project from Bolpur over the phone! 

Friday, August 27, 2010

My Backside and not My Back!

The corn plants with flowers -- promising!
Though I was a bit tired after the ride from Roldih, I was without aches and pains. I was a bit worried that I'd feel my protesting muscles in the morning after a night's rest. And I did have a good night's rest because it had rained a lot last evening and it was nice and cool. When I woke up this morning (a little later than usual), I felt absolutely fine! Hey, it's good to know I'm a lot tougher than I think I am! I really did expect my back to give me trouble as it has always been somewhat weak. But it was my backside and not my back that seemed a bit sore.
The arhar saplings. They'll grow to be much taller.

I spoke to Bhola a while ago. In fact, I called because I was somewhat worried about the fact that he hadn't called all day to give me any news of his wife. It turned out that he "forgot" to call me! Amazing lapse of memory I must say -- specially since I drove him to Siuri because of the so-called emergency situation. Anyway, it turns out that his wife is feeling much better. When he took my call, Bhola was on his way to the project after having dropped his wife and in-laws at their village.

Corn patch -- view from the well
I also spoke to Kaori to find out how they were while Bhola was away. She said they were all  fine and followed the daily routine. Shanku and Suman were tending to the corn. Actually, in all the excitement about the bike ride and Bhola's "emergency" I forgot to mention the crops on the campus. I was quite pleasantly surprised to see that the premises looked quite "groomed". There's a lot of grass, which is normal for this season, but the paths have been kept clear of growth. Even the grass in places have been cropped. But what actually surprised me was the patch of corn between the well and the toilets. And the space between the path and the wall in the east has been planted with lentil (arhar) which is also growing well.

The cemented paths leading to the toilets
With bricks lying around, they've paved pathways leading to the toilets. This is great. I'm happy they are taking the initiative and doing things. But it upsets me that I am not informed of these changes -- before or afterwards! I'm having to arrange for the funds and it would really help to know what's going on at the project. I'm glad I can hop across more often now and find out for myself what's going on. And if all this sprucing up was done to impress me, at least my frequent trips will ensure it's done more frequently!

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Ride to Roldih (and Back)

Me and my Bike
It's pouring rain in Bolpur. Quite unexpected. There was not a cloud in the sky when I was riding to this place. But this is India and nothing is predictable. As usual, they have disconnected the power supply to this town. So I'm grateful for the inverter. I'm looking at my motorcycle as I type. She's drenched. And I think she deserves the shower. I needed on badly when I got back this afternoon. I washed my face at a restaurant where I had lunch and when I wiped my face with my handkerchief, it became instantly black -- the handkerchief, not my face! I guess, for some people it's black anyway!

The road from Shantiniketan to Siuri
In contrast to my ride to Roldih yesterday, todays journey was a little tiring. Probably because of the heat. And also maybe because I had a pilion rider -- Bhola. In fact, he's the reason why I decided to rush back today. As you know, his wife has been ill and admitted to a nursing home in Siuri for treatment. It turned out that along with malaria and urinary infection, she also has jaundice. Though weak, she was apparently ok. But last night Bhola received a phone call from his father-in-law saying that he should reach Siuri as soon as possible because her condition had become very "serious". We couldn't leave last night, so we decided to leave for Siuri this morning. Siuri, by the way, is the district HQ of Birbhum and the first city on the way to Roldih from Bolpur. It's an hour's drive from here.

Lush green paddy fields
We left at 7:30 am this morning -- as soon as assembly was over. I dropped Bhola to the nursing home, saw his wife, who looked very weak and met his mother-in-law, who very apparently is a "drama queen". Bhola's wife is ill. But certainly not "seriously ill" or "dying". I do hope she responds to the medicines and gets well soon. I don't know when Bhola will go back to the project. But if he needs to stay back in Siuri, then I'll go to the project. Shanku, Suman and the three volunteers are doing fine and will be able to manage without Bhola or me. But I feel responsible, especially because the volunteers are there. Let's see.

So here I am in Bolpur. Feeling quite fresh and relaxed after a short nap and a shower. It's amazing that last evening at this time I was sitting on my veranda and watching the moon rise over the "hill". And this evening I am sitting under a fan writing a blog and smelling the scent of rain-soaked soil. Roldih is literally "round the corner". So I can simply jump on my iron steed and head for it any time I feel like it. It will certainly be fun to do the journey in winter.

The Masanjor Dam -- a nice place to rest
Everyone from Agiya Mor to Roldih couldn't believe their eyes when they saw me riding the bike! And even though the people at the ashram knew I was coming, they did not really expect me to make it. One friend had even assumed that I had probably turned back and gone home (Bolpur) after a few kilometers. To be fair to everyone, I had grave doubts myself. I'm a couple of years short of 60 and in India, that's OLD! I'm proud of myself and feeling very confident at the moment. Maybe I will invest in a better bike and go off on long drives. It's a cheap way of travelling great distances. It's also a great way of touching, feeling, breathing the environment of the places that you travel through. Go offroad if you wish. Stop and stare at a body of water, a forest covered hill or just switch off the bike and listen to the sound of the birds and trees when you are driving though tree-lined highways. And Bolpur to Roldih has all this and more to offer. It's really a picturesque journey.

I had breakfast here
I left Bolpur yesterday at 7:00 am. Sweat was dripping from my nose when I started my bike. It was that humid. But once I was on the road, the weather became pleasant. I had cloud cover all the way it that made such a difference. The first stretch from Shantiniketan to Siuri was through woods and lush green paddy fields. I was in Siuri by 8:00 and so was able to cut across town without encountering much traffice. It's a very busy city normally and prone to traffic jams and road blocks.

Colourful cables on the roadside
I kept on till I reached Shaorakuli police barrier. There I stopped for a breakfast of puffed rice, curried chickpeas and potato chops. Quite tasty really. I also had some lemon tea. Again very tasty even though I prefer milk tea. My next stop was Masanjor's Mayurakshi Dam. We always stop there and eat Jhal Muri (puffed rice mixed with an assortment of things -- chopped onions, green chillies and ginger, finely chopped coconut, chanachur, boiled chickpeas, pickles and lots of chilly powder! It's quite tasty. And a cup of hot tea afterwards tastes even better!

At the morning assembly before leaving
After that I rode non-stop through Dumka and stopped only at Karbinda, about 40 kms short of Roldih. Had a cup of tea and then headed for Roldih. When I entered the gate at the ashram, it was 12:00 noon! Hannah, Fran and Kaori greeted me in Bengali. Bhola had been teaching them a few phrases. Their pronounciation was excellent -- "Nomoshkar, aapni kemon achen"!

School has already been over for an hour and so I did not get to meet the children till assembly this morning. I don't know if they were disappointed that I was leaving immediately. But I did promise to spend more time with them in September when there would be no volunteers. I think they understood why both Bhola and I had to rush off. But I was happy to note that they were all still very disciplined. And surprise, surprise, some even spoke when I spoke to them! Great....

View of the cornfield from the well
They were all very happy to hear that Eri, Renee and Dani are coming back. I'm surprised how well they seem to remember the volunteers! I tend to forget people. But then I've always had a bad memory for names and people. Quite embarrassing really.

Unfortunately, I did not get to talk to the girls much. I did expect to spend time with them and get to know them. I did not expect circumstances to change so dramatically and drastically. They seemed happy to be on the project. They seemed very well adjusted. They didn't have any complaints! And the project staff had no complaints regarding them either! In fact, I was told that the nursery kids absolutely adore Fran. I do wish I could have stayed to see what is it she does that makes them feel that way....

But I'm really happy that I made this trip. The fact that I made it there and back on consecutive days also proves that I'm still fit. It's good to know that the project is a 5-hour bike ride away. It's do able. And I think it's good for people to be aware that Guruji can appear out of nowhere on any day!







Saturday, August 21, 2010

Regularly Irregular

I don't know what I was expecting when I moved to Bolpur, but I certainly did not expect to feel lonely! It would be nice to have a friend that I could walk across and talk to in the evening or call over for dinner and drinks. But I have no such friend here. Sunil, God bless him, does drop in every now and then and if ever so helpful with directions and is genuinely full of concern. But he's a busy man and I don't like to keep him busy chatting with me because I know he gets to spend very little time with his family.

Archie, who was so helpful when I came to Bolpur the first time, has now become too busy to even answer my phone calls! I know he divides his time between Kolkata and Shantiniketan, but of late he's simply disappeared. I had hoped to spend time with him. Ah well... 

Shinja, Sunil's daughter, drops in once in a while and so does Aditi, her cousin. But these two little girls come at the oddest of times! When I am cooking lunch or busy working. And invariably they wish to play with MY computer. No other computer will do. So, sadly, I don't get to enjoy their company much. Often I have to say no to them, which makes me feel bad.

I would love to get on my bike and go for a long bike ride. But really, you've got to experience the weather here to know why I'm not doing that! Step away from the fan and you'll be drenched in perspiration within minutes. I never expected Bolpur to be this humid! I was told  that the weather is Birbhum (this region) is akin to the weather in Santhal Pargana. Bolpur is supposed to be hot and dry! I can deal with that. But unfortunately, this year, it is hot and humid. Almost rain-forest weather without the rains. Really, I wonder what happened to the monsoon this year. It's raining in all the wrong places and nowhere near where I stay!

Kolkata was dry when I was there. Roldih was dry when I was there. Delhi was dry when I was there! And now Delhi is flooded. Roldih and Kolkata have had their fair share of rain. But Bolpur hasn't received even a buckful of rain this year. There was some rain when I arrived in the start of July. That's all! Nothing after that.

I thought of escaping to the project. But Bhola says it's extremely hot there right now despite the rains. He keeps saying: "Don't come till it gets cooler"! When will it get cooler I wonder? In any case I will be going one of these days weather permitting or not. I would have left today, but Shinja has asked me to stay till Monday, which is her "happy birthday". So I decided not to go till the big event (if there's one) is over. I need to buy her a present. But I don't know what!

Bhola's wife is ill once again.  In fact, he was in Dumka yet again yesterday because her condition had deteriorated at night. He had to be taken to a doctor for more tests and given different medicines -- this time for some infection. Hope she'll be better. Bhola is quite tense about it because his inlaws expect him to be with his wife. He doesn't mind that. But they insist that he stay with his wife in their house. And Bhola doesn't wish to do that. They are refusing to let him bring her back to Devdand, to their own house. That way he could take care of the project and also of his wife. Dumka is a long commute and he doesn't wish to be away from the project and his work. I do hope his wife's condition improves and Bhola can stop worrying about her. And start worrying about dropping attendance in school.

Of the original 105, ten children have dropped out. A few among those left somehow can't seem to come to school regularly. As a result the daily attendance is hovering around 85... sometimes plus and at times minus.
One child who is regularly irregular is Parvati, Harish's daughter. Every since she's joined school, Parvati has been having problems attending school regularly. Whenever we speak to Harish, he feigns ignorance and yells at Parvati for not coming to school. "She has no work at home so I don't know why she doesn't come," he says. And yet we know that he is responsible for her absenteeism. She's either made to take care of the small children at home, or look after the cattle in the field, or tend to her bed-ridden grandmother. Talking to Harish does improve her attendance for a few days but it goes back to being the same -- regularly irregular. By the way, that's what my teachers used to write in my report card when I was in school! And believe me, we did not have cattle to look after nor did I have an ailing grandmother.

Friday, August 20, 2010

The Weather Gods Don't Like Me!

Bhola's wife is much better now. But seems to feel nauseous at times. That, I'm sure, is because of the medicines she's taking. I asked Bhola why he did not recommend "Juri Taap", the ayurvedic medicine which is cheap and very, very effective and he said that his in-laws would accuse him of being a miser! They'd feel that he did not wish to spend money on his wife's treatment and hence was recommending cheap medicines.

Yes, it's true. That's how people in the villages think even today. In fact, Bhola's wife was not all that seriously ill that she needed to be rushed to the hospital in Dumka. But Bhola says that if he had got her treated locally, then "it would look bad". His in-laws would accuse him of "not caring for his wife"!

Anyway, now that he has already taken her to the doctors in Dumka and spent a lot of money buying medicines for her, he did  recommend the use of "Juri Taap" to his mother-in-law. Now whether they use it or not is up to them. The sad news, however, is that this medicine is no longer easily available. Some stockists are saying that the company has stopped manufacturing it because of low sales. Sad, isn't it? That the very people (in the villages) who can't afford expensive medicines are the one's who reject cheaper alternatives!

Attendance is dropping steadily. From 100 children at the start of the year, we are now averaging 85 children in Roldih. Some children have dropped out. Some others have moved away. But there are still others who are simply not attending school as regularly as they should. Bhola does something that I never did -- at the end of the month he tells the children how many days they have been absent from school and asks them for an explaination. But even this is not helping. Maybe what we should do is call for the parents if the monthly attendance drops below 95%?

Yesterday it rained a lot in the project area. According to Bhola the trees are looking happy and the farmers too are looking happy because they feel there's now some hope of growing something after this rain. Meanwhile, Godda district has already been declared drought affected. This means a lot of money will pour in for the drought stricken farmers. Some of it may reach them. The rest will, of course, find its way into a few pockets. Everyone loves a drought.

It rained in Kolkata too! Mitali said it rained so hard that she and her son had to cancel going out for some work. She promised that Bolpur would be getting some rain too! And yes, I was looking forward to some rain because I thought since it's raining in Roldih and Kolkata, it makes logical sense that it should rain in between too! Unfortunately, the weather gods don't believe in logic and that's apparent from the fact that it rained in Ladakh and Rajasthan and caused floods and didn't rain where it should! Well, Bolpur certainly has been left out of the loop. There were floods in North Bengal and heavy rains in South Bengal and but no rains where I live! Can you blame me for feeling victimized?

I'm waiting for the weather to improve so that I could go out and explore this area. But it's so hot and humid these days that even if I go on a 5 minute bike ride to the market, I need to come back and change my clothes and have a shower. Honest! I'm really not exaggerating.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Bhola's Wife Has Malaria

No project news. But when I spoke to Bhola this afternoon, he was in Dumka getting in wife treated at the doctor's. In fact, she was being administered "drips" because she was extremely weak from fever. Bhola said she was in no "danger" but was very weak because she had been suffering from low fever for the past few days.

Bhola's wife was apparently staying with her parents in a village near Dumka. And Bhola got a call last night saying her condition was quite serious. So he rushed to his in-laws' place and took his wife to the hospital in Dumka. I spoke to him a few minutes ago and he was in Ramgarh at his brother-in-law's place. His had left his wife with her parents and is on his way back to the project. Since today was manasa puja, a puja in honour of the snake god, he had been invited to his b-i-l's place for lunch. He was having it now, at 5:00 pm!

At the moment I'm somewhat disturbed by the news on TV about the collapse of a school roof in Kapkot, Uttaranchal. The details are quite sketchy because it's a remote area and it's only claim to fame is that it is the starting point of the trek to the Pindari and Sunder Dunga glaciers. My friend (who's a sadhu) runs a school for children in that place and I am wondering if it's his school that has collapsed in the the cloudburst. I'm also wondering if I should go there to see if I can help.

Wonder what's happening to the monsoon this year. It's raining in places where it doesn't and there's no rain here in the east and crops and people are withering away.

Monday, August 16, 2010

Miscommunication

I suppose Bhola was  so terrified that I'd disapprove of "fun and frolic" on the project that he didn't quite convey the facts to me. He told me he had hired musicians -- drummers and people played the flute. But when the girls (Fran, Kaori and Hannah) sent me some pictures, I couldn't spot any musicians. When I phoned Bhola about this he told me they had hired "musicians" only. Well, what he actually meant was that he had rented a few musical instruments -- drums, cymbals, flute, etc -- so that he and the children could make music.

I wonder why he's so nervous about this? I don't disapprove of music on the project. Yeah, I'd go ballistics if they played tacky Hindi filmy songs at full blast -- as it happens at weddings and pujas and all other celebratory occasions. But I would encourage them to make music and if I felt they were serious about it, I'd even buy them the necessary musical instruments if we had money to spare!

Anyway, I'm very very happy that they actually CELEBRATED Independence Day and more people than usual participated because of the music. The volunteers enjoyed themselves thoroughly and they sent me an email to that effect along with some photos. I mentioned this to Meena and she was quite amazed -- How did you manage to get pictures so quickly from the project, she asked in amazement. Via the net, I said. You mean to say they are so efficient on the project despite the lack of electricity? Yes, I say, it's amazing what all you can do with a Intel-sponsored Classmate PC and a USB Data Card. Jai Ho Airtel!

So here are a couple of pictures that were sent across. Enjoy......

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Vande Mataram -- Jai Bharat, Jai Jagat

So we celebrate one more Independence Day. I believe it was a grand celebration at the project. Bhola called to tell me that there were many, many, many people who attended the flag hoisting ceremony at the project. The parents of the children came. The villagers came. Some passersby too.

Was it because I wasn't there? I think so. Because had I been there, they wouldn't have hired drummers and musicians for the occasion! When Bhola heard that I wasn't coming, he decided to hire a "music party" to celebrate the occasion. And that was the crowd puller. I think he was right to organize things to make it more lively for the children as well as the villagers. I may or may not have objected to the "musicians". But since I will be paying the piper, I think I have a right to know that they are playing! I think he should have informed me what he was planning. Especially if he felt that it is something I may disapprove of. I'm no spoilsport. My decisions are always based on what's good for the project and the people who live in it.

For me, Independence Day is a sombre occasion. Even though I feel proud to be an Indian on this day in particular, I also tend to think a lot about those who sacrificed their lives so that we could live in an independent country. Have we been able to honour their sacrifices if not repay them? Have we been live up to their expectation of a free country where every Indian would be fed, clothed and housed and kept safe and healthy? So for me Independence Day is a day of mourning because I tend to think of those who died for ME. A day for remembering their sacrifices. A day of feeling proud to be an Indian living in a DEMOCRATIC country. But also a day to feel ashamed for not living up to the expectations of those who laid down their lives so that we could live in a free country.

Anyway, I'm glad the villagers came and had a good time. I am no longer feeling bad that I was unable to be present. In fact, I'm glad I wasn't there and that everyone managed to have a good time, including Hannah, Fran and Kaori, who, I believe, were recording everything on video. I am waiting for Bhola to send me a few pictures via email so that I can upload for the blog.

The weather is somewhat pleasant today. I was a bit worried that it might rain and literally washout the flag-hoisting ceremonies and disappoint a lot of school children and others who treat this occasion seriously. But the carpenter who is banging away at my doors and windows and trying to get them to shut properly, obviously feels that working is the best way of celebrating Independence Day. He will earn his daily bread and feed his family. Because despite seven decades of Independence we have not been able to provide him with the social security that will allow him to put away his tools for the day. The rickshaw puller, the maids, the servants, the cobbler, the tailor, the mason, the labourers, the farmers, practically all Indians from all walks of life have to struggle today to earn their daily bread. Only a privileged few can sit back and enjoy their "hard-earned" holiday.

Jai Hind, Jai Bharat, Jai Jawan, Jai Kisan, Jai Shaheed.... Ma tujhe salaam!

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Change of Plans

Friday the 13th turned out to be an eneventful and enjoyable day, in fact. Mitali and I chatted in the morning till I dropped her to the station from where she took a train back to Kolkata. I came back and cooked some lunch, watched some  tv and then had a little nap. It had rained a lot and so it was nice and cool and perfect condition for a siesta.

The motorbike mechanic came with the bike late in the evening. Too later for me to take it out for a trial ride. Also, Sunil and Mitali felt that I should first ride the bike in and round Bolpur before taking it out for a long drive. In fact, they insisted that I drop the idea of going to Roldih for Independence Day. There's too much happening in Bolpur on the domestic front -- I need to find someone to help me keep the house clean; my new phones have been disconnected due to non-submission of documents by the vendor and that has to be sorted out. Most importantly, I've been wearing old spectacles and can't see very well. I have ordered new ones and will get them today hopefully. So what was I thinking when I decided to go to Roldih for Independence Day?

Anyway,  I've now decided that I'll go next weekend. By that time I hope I'll have sorted out all "domestic" issues and will be able to stay on the project for a week at least. By which time, I'm sure the volunteers will have formed an opinion about the project and it may be more interesting interacting with them. Hopefully they'll have more questions to ask! One more thing -- my Yoga routine will not be disturbed for at least another week! Maybe  I'll be able to put in an extensive week of yoga at the ashram.

I had a very interesting evening yesterday. Sunil stayed and chatted for a while. Then his daughter came and spent a little time playing computer games. His wife, Abira, who is a research scholar at the Vishwa Bharati University, dropped in for a chat. We discussed what could be done here in Bolpur and came up with some ideas and plans. Now to see if any of them are workable!

I spoke to Bhola this morning. He was quite disappointed that I was not coming. Everyone was expecting me for Independence Day and so I am feeling a bit guilty about not going. But I think it makes a lot of practical sense to go next weekend. Hence, I'm trying to live with the guilt.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

The Volunteers Have Reached Roldih

Bhola, Hannah, Fran and Kaori reached Roldih around 2:00 pm after finishing the police registration process in Godda. I'm glad they left Bolpur early so that they could finish off the Godda work and still reach in time for lunch and not have to make a special trip the next day. According to Bhola, the journey was uneventful and hassle-free. That's good. I was worried about road-bocks and wildcat strikes -- the curse of eastern India.

I'm glad the girls got to meet Tom and Roisin who are probably winging their way home even as I write this blog. Well, my message to them is that even though I haven't spent much time with them, I'm really grateful they came and stayed at Roldih and taught the children. I do hope they come back again. We'd love to have you back.

Well, it's been an interesting day for me. I bought myself a DVD player! Yes, I splurged. But it's not only for entertainment, it's also for work. I may have to show motivational videos to my "students". That reminds me, if you have some good videos on soft-skills or good motivational videos, please do send them!

I had a long, long nap in the evening and spent some time talking music with Sunil, who dropped in. He had helped me buy the DVD player in the morning and helped me set it up in the evening. We share the same taste in music (the Indian part of it) and so we had a lot to talk about. Sunil, who's a construction contractor besides having his fingers in various pies, does not look like someone who'd be interested in classical Indian music! This proves that looks can be so deceptive...

Campus Tour and Bengali Food

Bhola and the girls -- Hannah, Francesca and Kaori -- left about an hour ago for the project. By now they have probably crossed Siuri -- that's if they don't encounter any road-blocks which seem to spring out of nowhere for the flimsiest of reasons. No electic supply, no water supply, no medical assistance, a minor altercation between two people -- anything could be reason for a road-block or poth-oborodh as it is know here. I don't understand how this helps the cause. Creating inconveniences for the people who probably have nothing to do with the problem is certainly no solution. Why not go and gherao the people responsible for the lack of basic amenities?

Anyway, Mitali and the girls arrived  around lunch time. We ate immediately and then everyone rested in the afternoon. It was terribly hot yesterday. Really, really, unbearably hot. So we all had a bit of siesta. Then Bhola took the girls to the museum, which was closed because everything -- shops, institutions, etc -- are closed for half a day on Tuesdays. And they are closed all day on Wednesdays -- and today is Wednesday. Anyway, they went around the campus and generally enjoyed the trip. Bhola to enjoyed driving them around as he had never been inside the campus before.

I think the heat and the journey got to Kaori, who was not looking too good when she got back from the visit. But a little bit of rest and she was ready for dinner. We all went out to our favourite eating joint -- Ghare Baire -- which serves authentic Bengali food. The ambience is nice and it's got Rabindranath's doodles and graffitti on the walls. and roof. Quite a nice place and the food is good and we had invited Sunil, his wife Abira and his daughter Shinja too. So it was a nice evening even though we were all too busy eating and so conversation was minimal. And we came back early so that we could get some sleep beacause Bhola and the girls would have an early start.

For me, it was a nice day and a great way to "warm up" the house and in some ways show off my "domestic skills"! Awww.... as usual, I forgot to take pictures!

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Bandhs (strikes) and Road Blocks

Just got a call from Mitali. She and the girls are on the train. If all goes well, and the train is not delayed, they should be here by 1:00. But like everything in India, everything is unpredictable -- even the apparently predicatable.

A while ago I discovered that the Maoists have called a Jharkhand Bandh (strike). A friend, who was planning to take a train from Ranchi to Kolkata, called to say that he had to take the early morning flight from Ranchi because of the strike. So I called Bhola to find out if he was stuck in Jharkhand. He said that he was already in Siuri, which is about an hours drive from here. He hadn't heard of the strike and had no problems crossing into West Bengal. But then he called about 20 minutes ago to say that he has been stopped at a road block. This happens almost every time Bhola comes to Bolpur. It's amazing....

Apprently some villagers had decided to block the highway because the administration had not released water in the canals! The place is only 5 kms from Bolpur. So now God alone knows when he'll get here! I spoke to him a few minutes ago and he said that he had tried one alternate route, but that too has been block. He was going to try another route to get here. Let's hope he succeeds and gets here before Mitali and company arrive. He's supposed to fetch them from the station. But that's not a problem because they can always take a couple of cycle rickshaws and get to Mission Compound.

So that's the story so far.... once they arrive, I may get too busy to write the blog. I'm looking forward to the visitors. I've been a bit "lonely" lately. It would be nice to have company even if it's only for a day!

Monday, August 9, 2010

The Strike Is Off

When I called Mitali about 30 minutes ago, she had just finished having lunch with Tom and Roisin and were looking at the pictures that they had taken during their stay at the project. Hannah, Francesca and Kaori had not been in touch. They should have arrived in Kolkata this morning if they had taken the overnight train from Varanasi. I wonder where they are. I hope they get in touch with Mitali by this evening. Their tickets are booked and Bhola will leave early in the morning to get here to fetch them! If they don't show up or show up too late, the plans may go haywire.

The good news is that there is not going to be a transport strike after all. At least that is what the papers are saying. But one never knows -- some local leaders are acting indepently and enforce strikes even though the leadership says it's off! I'm sorry that Tom and Roisin had to leave earlier than expected because of the strike call. I'm sure they would have loved to have a few more days on the project. Anyway, they are getting to see Kolkata, if that's any consolation. If would also be nice if they could meet the new volunteers. I have a funny feeling they took a slow train to Kolkata and that's probably been delayed indefinitely.

It's been another hot day here in Bolpur. I wonder if this is the end of the rainly season for this region. Strange.... it rains in Leh and destroys everything and it refuses to rain here and causes extensive damage to crops. What's happening to the weather?

I've uploaded some pictures of the house in Bolpur on Facebook. If you have the time or the inclination, you could go there and see.

That's all the news I have at the moment.... and when it comes to volunteers, no news is not always good news.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Blistering Bolpur!

It's been and hot and sunny Sunday so far. And why not? It's SUN-day! But somewhat unexpected considering that there's been lots of cloud cover and an occasional shower every day. I know whay it hasn't rained today -- it's because I brought in the washing before taking my afternoon nap! The days I leave the washing on the clothesline, it rains. Not for long... but long enough to wet the dry clothes.

I woke up to some good news. The three new volunteers are definitely arriving in Kolkata tomorrow and meeting Mitali. Great. They can also meet Tom and Roisin at Mitali's place. In fact, Mitali is busy planning lunch for T and R. Wonder if she'll put on some extra rice for the new arrivals.

It's still not very clear if the transport strike is on or off. There's nothing about it in the papers and there's nothing about it on tv. It's so bloody hard to plan anything in this country! And right now I'm quite upset with everything... the Corrupt Wealth Games, the numerous strikes in the name of the public and yet with scant regard for the public inconvenience.

Now that I have gone and made such elaborate arrangements to get volunteers to the project and also to the airport, I'm almost wishing that there's a strike on from the 10th till the 12th! That's terrible. I'm obviously not thinking of the enormous human suffering these strikes cause. The only people who seem to benefit from strikes are politicians and their "political workers" who have nothing better to do anyway. I am yet to see any strike benefit the common man. The poor rickshaw puller, the roadside stall owners, the cobblers, the labourers... these are the people who suffer. Even some white collared workers miss out on schedules and deadlines. The economy suffers. And all in the name of fighting for the rights of the poor people.

Anyway, here in Mission Compound -- that's where I live in Bolpur -- it's very quiet at the moment. It's about 400 metres to the main road. So the streets sounds don't reach here. But the rain tracks are quite close and so once in a while one can hear the diesel engines lumber by.

For those who are interested, today is Rabindranth Tagore's dead anniversary. There may be memorial programmes going on in some places, but since I don't know many people here, I don't know what's happening. But I've been listening to a lot of Rabindra Sangeet -- songs composed by the bard -- on tv. In a way, I'm glad I walk on the same land that was once tread by such a great man.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Bolpur Banter

It's almost 11 a.m. Most people are in their offices and a lucky few on a weekend break. I've been in my "office" since 7:30 and have done precious little to show for it. Feeling "useless" and a bit guilty for not working.

I've been sharing my ideas with people -- Sunil, shopkeepers, people who drop in. I've even offered to teach English to children. So far no one has responded. I'm still wondering how to go about publicizing the fact that I am willing to teach English and other soft skills to people for a nominal fee. The fee is more to ensure that they take me seriously.

Would it have made a difference if I were a woman? YES! Single men -- even old ones -- are looked upon with suspicion. The very first day Mitali was here, she was able to talk to the girl who lives opposite us about home delivery of food. In fact, the girl met us on the street a few days later and gave us the phone number of a food caterer who delivered meals to people. I can't imagine such a thing happening with me. Firstly, if I spoke to the girl she would think I'm wierd! Secondly, she wouldn't go out of the way to give me the phone number.

I'm glad I have Sunil as a neighbour. He drops in every day before going to work to see if I need anything. He arranges for everything -- electrician, newpaper, bike mechanic, optician... I just have to mention I need something and the next thing you know is that he's got it organized. I must find a way to show my gratitude.

Right now I wish I were a woman or at least have a woman here who would help me do a bit of local networking.

I spoke to Tom this morning. He said that both he and Roisin were sad to leave and that they had a great time at Roldih and will be keeping in touch. That's nice. I won't get to meet them as they are taking a bus to Kolkata and not going via Bolpur. And because of the threatened transport strike I don't wish to go to Kolkata and get stuck there. I MUST stay put here for a while and grow some roots.
People should know that I live here. Even though I've taken the place on rent in July, I've hardly lived here!

That's all for now... Time to upload a fresh face for Facebook!

Friday, August 6, 2010

Bolpur Blues III

Got a few extra plug points installed in the house yesterday. The electrician took all day to put them in the kitchen, dining area, living room and my office. He works very well. But is very slow and very methodical. Anyway, I think the Bolpur house is all set. Now to start work!

Honestly, I don't know where to begin. I'm already sent out feelers to the secretary of a club down the lane. Apparently they used to have classes for poor children but discontinued because they couldn't find volunteers. I've already mentioned that I am willing to volunteer... but there's a bit of a problem here -- the "club" is politically sponsored and the "club members" apparently only gather there to drink! I don't know how true this is. But that's the rumor that's floating around.

I am wondering if I should start a new blog about my days in Bolpur. Dakshinayan Diary can become Roldih Ramblings and Bolpur events can be recorded in Bolpur Blues..... any comments or suggestions?

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Bolpur Blues II

People complain when I don’t write the blog and yet, when I do put up something on Dakshinayan Diary, I get no comments! Actually, my beard – and now the lack of it – attracted more comments than the blog or my move to Bolpur!

Sunil, my neighbour and friend in Bolpur, just gave me a datacard. Someone had given it to him as a promo offer and he never used it and had even misplaced it. But last night he found it and gave it to me this morning. Of course it need to be “loaded” with money, but the surfing rate is much cheaper. Let’s hope it works.

As a goodwill gesture I let him use my bike for today. He’s bike is being repaired. So that’s the least I could do for him. Besides, I am unable to mount the bike! I can.... but it’s an effort. I really have grown old! So ever since it came, it’s been used only once and has been lying in the garage ever since. I’m glad it’s being used. At least it will be in running condition. Meanwhile, Sunil is trying to find me a scooter. Apparently, I can find one fairly cheap. In fact, someone was supposed to come over this morning with an old scooter, but did not show up. But according to Sunil, people don’t want scooters anymore and so sooner or later, we are going to find one. Sooner, I hope.

I would gladly give away my bike to Sunil. But yesterday I spoke to Bhola and he says he misses the bike and needs it. Well, if that’s the case, the bike can go back to the project. But I’m wondering why, if the bike is so essential to the project, it is not kept in good repair? I just spent Rs 3000 to get it repaired and in running condition. And now that it is working fine, suddenly it is badly needed on the project? I recall that whenever I asked people why the bike was not being used, I was told it’s not needed really. I should sell it. One of Bhola’s million cousins wanted to buy it, etc, etc. And now Bhola says he needs it on the project and that selling it wouldn’t be a good idea. And that I’m too old to ride a bike anyway! 

Bhola also told me that he had cooked mushrooms on the project! The volunteers loved it. I love mushrooms too. But after one very bad and scary experience in Paharpur, I have given up eating local mushrooms. I prefer the “button” mushrooms available at vegetable stores to the ones growing wild in and around the ashram during this season. But I suppose Bhola knows what he is doing.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Bolpur Blues



Today is perhaps the first day that I am at home. It feels that way. All of July I felt I was settling in. Today, for the first time, I feel settled. I woke up, did my pranayam, had breakfast, had a bath and am now sitting at the computer.

The internet problem has not been solved. No one seems to know how to get “unlimited” net connectivity. So I am getting online via my cell phone and it’s costing me the earth. I don’t quite like the idea of going to an internet cafe – they ask too many questions and peer over your shoulder at times. Quite disconcerting.

There’s not much to “see” in Bolpur and I think I’ve covered most of it during my earlier visits to the place. But I do need to get to know people and make friends. And I really need to figure out how to start work. I think I’ll think this month. And then start something next month. Of course, life is full of surprises and plans don’t always work out the way we want them to.

The news from the project is good. I have been speaking to Tom and Roisin occasionally. They both seem fine and keep saying “everything is fine”. It’s a pity they have to leave earlier than they expected to.  There’s a transport strike in West Bengal from the 10th till the 12th. And they have a flight to catch on the 11th. So they have to be in Kolkata on the 9th. But to do that they need to leave Godda on the 8th. And since 8th is a Sunday and the police station is closed, they have to leave on the 7th. According to Bhola, they seem ok with it. He’s already booked them on the Godda-Kolkata bus on 7th night.

The volunteers for August are already in India and due to arrive in Kolkata on the 9th. I am trying to work it out so that they can catch the train to Bolpur on the 10th. Once they reach here, Bhola can drive them to the project.

I’m glad the kids are going to have two months of English – July and August. There are still no volunteers for September and the rest of the year. But given the state of the world’s economy, this is not surprising. Renee may come back in November and that would be great.  I am hoping her plans work out.

I have no plans for the rest of the day. I’ll probably sort out my papers (Amie! Wish you were here!), cook myself a decent meal (I had Maggie noodles for lunch and dinner yesterday), take a nap in the afternoon and maybe watch some tv!

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Bolpur (Shanti Niketan)

Sometimes, when there's a lot to say, it's hard to figure out where to begin. The cliche is begin at the beginning. So where's the beginning? I just read the last post and it seems that I haven't written anything for over a month! And it has been a rather unusual and hectic month for me. No wonder I did not get around to writing anything. Anyway, let me briefly fill you in on what's been happening.

Towards the end of June, when I had almost given up all hopes of ever finding a place to rent in Bolpur, I got a call my friend Jayati saying that a friend of a friend was willing to rent out her "outhouse" to a single person. So I lost no time going to Bolpur to check it out. And since I was going to there, I decided to call Sunil, one of Mitali's acquaintances, to find out if he had any news regarding places on rent. Indeed he did have news -- there was an independent house on rent.

Anyway, to shorten the story, let's say, I liked both places but decided to settle for the Sunil option. Firstly, it's an independent house with it's own garden, garage and well (Bolpur suffers from chronic water shortage). Secondly, it is next to the main market and yet very quiet because it's located in a quiet lane parallel to the main road. Thirdly, the house is owned by Sunil's sister and this is a big advantage. They are not going to object to me using it as an office. In fact, Sunil is keen that I start something there. Fourthly, Sunil is right next door and he has been extremely helpful. So all in all, I couldn't have expected a better deal even in my dreams. Honestly.

On the 28th of June I called Sunil and finalized the deal and on the 29th I rushed off to a meeting in Sikkim. It took me practically the whole day to reach Gangtok. The following day I spent driving to Namchi and back to visit a project. When I got back, I was feeling ill and had to skip the wonderful dinner hosted by the MP, who also happens to be a friend. Spent the whole of the next day travelling back to Kolkata. By the time I got back, I was really very sick and was laid up for a whole week with fever.

On the 9th Bhola moves some of my belonging from Roldih to Bolpur and then came to Kolkata and took some more of my stuff from Kolkata to Bolpur on the 10th. I followed by trian. Mitali and Tom and Roisin, the new volunteers, arrived by train the following day. When we reached Bolpur, we discoved that the house was a mess as Sunil had decided to renovate the bathroom! So when the others arrived we had to stay with the neighbours! Anyway, after a very uncomfortable stay (because of mosquitoes and frequent power cuts), we decided to go to Roldih.

It was great being back in Roldih. The place looked a little "neglected" in places and "freshly cleaned" in certain areas. Anyway, it was nice to be back. The trees have really grown taller and some of the children too! The school seems to be functioning smoothly and children are still very disciplined and dedicated. Bhola, Suman, Shanku, Kartik, Raiman and Radha are obviously doing a good job. Kartik is in some ways "running the school". Shanku teaches too. But I suspect it's more to avoid doing any physical work. In fact, Bhola thinks he's down right lazy. However, Shanku is the oldest person there and is quite reliable. Suman, was very, very quiet while I was there. He's quiet to begin with. But even more quiet now. Bhola feels it's because he was in pain. He had hurt himself a few days earlier while playing football with the children. Anyway, the project is doing ok and now that I am in Bolpur, perhaps I'll get to visit more often. However, I am definitely not going to "run" the project or "interfere". I told Bhola that I will be giving "suggestions" and not "intsructions" and that he will be responsible for all that happens on the project.

Tom and Roisin seemed happy to be in Roldih. He wasted no time getting to know the place and were making efforts to get to know the children when I last saw them. I've since heard that they have fitted in very well and are doing a great job of teaching the kids and seem to have grown quite attached to the place! I've spoken to them a few times over the phone. They seemed to be ok. Soon it will be time for them to leave. And right now I am waiting to hear from the three volunteers who are expected to join us in August.

Anyway, after spending two restless nights on bug infested and damp mattresses that were lying in Bhola's room, Mitali and I returned to Bolpur along with Bhola. By this time the bathroom was ready and looked really fabulous. We sorted out the furniture, the various bits and pieces of stuff and generally "settled" down.

Bhola went back to Roldih and Mitali returned to Kolkata. And I continued with the process of "settling down"  for a few more days before taking off for Tripura on the 21st. I got back to Kolkata on the 27th and left for Bolpur the same day with Mitali in tow. She helped me organize my things, make the place respectable and yesterday, on the spur of the moment I decided to come to Kolkata to pick up a few more of my belonging and also reply to mail and write this blog. I still don't have a net connection Bolpur and if I use the data card that I have, it costs me an arm and a leg just to log on! Hence, this trip to Kolkata. If you don't hear from me for the next few days, it's going to be because of no net!

Now that I am almost "settled", I'll now start concentrating on work. I have many ideas floating in my head. It's time to figure out what is practical and what is not. But finding the place has convinced me once again that things happen when they are meant to happen. That doesn't mean we shouldn't try!