Tuesday, September 28, 2010

THE ENGLISH ADDA

Bhola says that Suman's departure hasn't really effected the project in any way. Shanku and Bhola probably need to do a lot more "housework". What else is there for them to do? Shanku isn't a full-time teacher. And Bhola teaches when he can. It's mostly Kartik, Raiman and Radha who are doing most of the teaching.

I am quite concerned about the project. It's just not working out financially. The monthly expenses work out to about Rs 30,000. Most of this is covered by contributions  from friends and volunteers and whatever money I receive as rent for my flat in Gurgaon. There are ex-volunteers who help out from time to time, but the debts keep mounting every month and whatever we gather isn't enough to pay off these debts. And now that I am living away from the project, I have my own expenses and can't contribute towards project expenses. In fact, my stay in Bolpur is being supported by a close friend.

I am really wondering what to do with the project. If I don't have the project to worry about, I really have no worries in life! If I live frugally, I can live out the rest of my life without having to beg. But if I continue running this project, I will have go around with the begging bowl and I'm sick and tired of that particular aspect of running a project. I just couldn't be bothered about maintaining accounts and I just couldn't be bothered about making proposals and visiting donors and asking them for support. To be honest, I am very close to throwing in the towel.

I know what mistakes I made and the wrong decisions I've taken in the past that has led to this sorry state of affairs. But some things were beyond my control -- the lack of dedicated people to work with me, the changing values of humanity in general. Anyway, the fact of the matter is that as I rapidly roll down to 60, I am very tired of running the project in Jharkhand. I've decided to give it one more year and then turn my back to it. So unless things improve in 2011, that project is closing down.

Meanwhile, I'm getting used to Bolpur and Shantiniketan and the great cultural and social divide between the two. I'm lucky to be accepted by both and that's perhaps because I'm still being perceived as an "outsider". And  probably because I come across as being posihed and "cultured" -- a "bhodrolok" perhaps. My circle of acquaintaces is growing and I'm getting to know a lot of interesting people.

So here's some good news: The English Adda has started. The first session was yesterday. Four young people enrolled themselves for the first batch, but only three showed up because one of them is acting in a play and hence had to go for rehearsals. The others are quite enthusiastic and it's great being able to teach adults for a change -- especially young people who know rudimentary English and simply need to brush it up.

I'm not charging this group anything because I've told them frankly that I will be treating them as "guinea pigs" to design a programme of Spoken English. They will learn from me and perhaps assist me when I set up a proper learning centre. These people are good with languages. One of them is studying Japanese and three others are fluent in Chinese. That's great is that one of them had attended a Spoken English course and told me that what I am offer is definitely far, far superior to what she got from there. How she could tell after attending only ONE SESSION,  I don't know! Let's see what she feels after a few weeks.

But I am happy that I've made a start. And right now I am very enthusiastic about it. Let's hope that all goes well and I am able to earn some money from THE ENGLISH ADDA and be able to run the project in Roldih and even start a small school for slum children here. Starting something is not difficult. But getting people to help out is certainly a hard task. Why  I chose the name The Englsih Adda (TEA) is coming in the next blog. This is all for now.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Suman has Quit the Project

It always rains AFTER my clothes are dry! But today I won't complain even though I'm still wondering why it always happens this way. Why doesn't it rain in the morning BEFORE my clothes are washed or put out to dry? Even if it rains while they are still wet, I wouldn't mind. Anyway, as you can gather, it's raining here. And raining cats and dogs. And even though we've had some rain over the past few days, what's happening now is REAL MONSOON rain. A bit too late perhaps. But still welcome.

However, like every easterner, I'm praying that it won't rain during October when the entire region celebrates Durga Puja. That would really be bad and rob people of whatever little joy they can have this year. It's really been a horrible year in every respect. So much drought and so much flooding. So many accidents and calamities. But then I wonder, will the following years be any different?

It's so easy to slip into morbid frame of mind these days. Is it my age? Or have things deteriorated and have gone from bad to worse? Still no cure for malaria or AIDS. War still rages on in Afghanistan and other places. Cowardly terrorists strike at will and DELIBERATELY at the innocent. Countries unleash their military might on their own people. Children continue to die of starvation and disease. Am I beening needlessly morbid? Or are humans becoming slowly and steadily inhuman? Are we seeing regression instead of evolution? And regression is such a catchy term these days -- past life regression. People wish to live in the past. The future no longer holds out any hope. It's better to look back instead of looking ahead.

And so now here's some news from the project. Suman left this morning. Permanently. He called me last evening to say that he would be quitting the project from the 1st of October. So, I told him that he didn't have to wait that long, he could leave right away, especially since he was in an inebriated state! He didn't seem apologetic about it. And seemed to feel no regret.

Am I sad? No! Even though I was very fond of Suman and had a soft spot for him because I considered him an "orphan", of late I've been hearing some not so nice things about him. This is not the first time that he was drunk. Apparently this was happening quite often of late. And he would sneak out at night and go to the village and drink with the young people there. So, in a way, I'm glad he's left.

But what saddens me is the "change of face". Just because he was now quitting, he no longer felt it necessary to be respectful while speaking to me. And yet, this was the same shy boy who would hardly open his mouth when I spoke to him! Some of the volunteers did try to tell me the Suman transformed the minute I left the project. But I found it hard to believe because I only saw a shy, timid, respectful and obedient boy whom we had "rescued" from his tyrannical father-in-law and wayward wife. Anyway, it's time for all of us to move on.

Bhola tells me they've found three little animals in the tall grass near the temple. These are definitely not kittens nor puppies and look more like tiger cubs but are too small to be so. They have stripes on their hind legs and soft fur all over. I suspect they are hyena cubs. I've asked them not to disturb them lest their mother abandons them. But what do we do when they grow up? They could easily kill Bruni. Or may even attack the school children. It's a dilemma. The forest department just doesn't care though they have been informed. The other possibility is that they may be wild cat kittens. Bruni is too scared to go near them! But then she has always been rather timid! Anyway, I'm hoping the mother will take them away now that they have been discovered.

I'm beginning to like Bolpur/Shantiniketan. I've joined a film society and have watched a few interesting and thought-provoking documentaries. The Vishwa Bharati is a happening place and I've been there to see an exhibition of portraits taken by an American photographer who's in India on a Fullbright-Nehru scholarship. There's also a quaint little boutique cum cafe cum book shop cum art gallery cum library called ALCHA which seems to be a favourite watering hole of all intellectual animals. I go there at times as I know the couple -- Satish and Keya -- who run it. Very interesting people. And I also get to meet other interesting people. So I'm feeling quite settled and happy.

Besides watching documentaries and reading books and meeting interesting people, I have also been putting together a lesson plan to start the ENGLISH ADDA -- the conversational English course. I've spoken to quite a few people who seemed interested to join. But so far no one has actually showed up at my doorstep! Someone told me that since I am in Bolpur, I should not expect students to take me seriously! What????!!!!

Apparently there's a very strong and thick wall made of snobbery that separates the two one-bullock cart villages! Those living in Bolpur are supposed to be "banias" or petty traders who lack "culture" and can't see beyond "profit" and Shantiniketan is blessed by educated, erudite, refined intellectuals who are the repository of everything "cultural". The "cultural brahmins" live in Shantiniketan and Sriniketan whereas the "untouchables" life in Bolpur. There's yet another class that inhabits Prantik -- a newly developed "colony" on the outskirts of Shantiniketan. This is the "nuveau riche" who build houses in "Shantiniketan" as a status symbol. They come there on weekends -- sometimes with family and sometimes with their mistresses -- spend most of the time "relaxing" or getting drunk and then going away. Most houses in Prantik are empty.

Anyway, that's the demographic profile of this place that I'm beginning to like. I still feel like and "outsider" and wish to remain so as I don't want to get involved in all this nonsense. But if indeed I people are unwilling to come to Bolpur because I'm here, I may have to make some alternative plans. Let's see how things happen. As they say s..t happens. Maybe I'm sitting right in the middle of it without being aware!

Monday, September 13, 2010

Bolpur Continues to Boil!

Just outside Bolpur it was overcast, cool and dry
Bhola came to Bolpur on Saturday. Not in the afternoon as I had expected, but rather in the evening after sun-down. I asked him how his wife was and he said that the doctor wanted a few more tests, but the pathology labs would conduct the tests on Sunday morning. Anyway, he did bring over a few things for me -- a few clothes, some books (a couple of German ones too!), a small table, etc.

He also brought along his brother-in-law and another relative (who is from Siuri) who is also a "brother-in-law" of sorts. Both very young and in Dumka SP College. And obviously not used to city life. Which surprised me because Siuri is a bigger city than Bolpur and even Dumka is quite a "developed" city -- it has electricity and all that you need for "modern" living. Anyway, these two boys were quite "special" because when I gave them "anwla" boiled in sugar (called morabba) to eat, they asked me what four was used to make it! And when they found a seed inside, they wanted to know what fruit it was!

If a city kid had asked me this question, I could understand it. But boys who have lived in their village all their lives not knowing what an "anwla" is, is quite shocking! "Anwla" trees used to grow wild all over Santhal Pargana once upon a time and you can still find a few trees in the woods and forests. Most kids love to pluck and eat these sour, berry-like, green fruits which are rich in vitamin C and are used a lot in ayurvedic medicines. I was really amazed that they didn't know anything about this fruit. Especially as it is sold in every village "haat" (market). At first I thought they were pulling my leg! But Bhola, who was equally shocked, realized that they were not.

The road through the forest -- mysterious and deep
Anyway, I took everyone out for dinner. They came back home and slept and left early in the morning to get back to Siuri. I really didn't get a chance to interact much with these guys and also didn't get to speak to Bhola much. He was quite disappointed to hear that Eri would not be able to come. And now that he is dealing with project finances, was quite worried at the mounting debts! Thanks to the support of friends and past volunteers we are limping along. But the situation is not a very happy one.

 After they left, since I was up and ready and the sky was overcast, I decided to go to Ilam Bazar as I was told that it's a nice ride through the forest. Once I reached the outskirs of Bolpur, it started to drizzle and by the time I reached the forest, it started to rain heavily. Anyway, it was a nice ride even though I was drenched to the skin. I was so wet that I did not bother to get off my bike for a cup of tea in Ilam Bazar and rode right back to Bolpur in the pouring rain. But the forest is deep and mysterious and I'd like to explore it a bit on a sunny and cool winter's day. I believe there are a couple of restaurants next to the forest. I didn't see them. But I wasn't looking hard. Driving through the rain wearing spectacles is like driving in a car without wipers! I'm glad I took my helmet -- at least my hair was dry! Though I did not manage to do all that I had set out to do, it was nice to be out of the house.

The forest stretches deep on both sides
Oh, I forgot to mention that as soon as I reached the outskirts of Bolpur, I found no rain! Apparently, it hadn't rained at all in Bolpur! Strange!!!! It seems to be raining everywhere except Bolpur. I wonder why? I asked Sunil this morning if he had any explaination for this, and he said: There are too many intellectuals in Shantiniketan and Bolpur and they let out a lot of "hot air"! Very funny. But I tend to agree with him.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Sunset Safari?

Bolpur's Latitude is roughly 23N whereas Delhi is approximately 28. Delhi's Longitude is 77E and Bolpur's 87. Perhaps this explains why whenever I check the temperatures of these two cities, they seem to be the same. Both these cities are 31 degrees Celsius whereas Kolkata seems to be cooler at 30 degrees. How accurate are these temperatures on iGoogle, I wonder. It's certainly cooler now at 6:00 pm than it was at noon, when it was showing 27 degrees for both cities!

It's been raining off and on. Short bursts that wet the clothes hanging on the clothesline. The sky is overcast for longer periods now. But it's still hot and humid. Very uncomfortable. But what worries me more is the fact that we are going to have a drought in many parts of this region this year. Some districts in West Bengal have been declared drought hit. In neighbouring Jharkhand too, the situation is grim.

Prices of food items have gone up substantially and many items are now out of the reach of common people. Even the upper middle class is feeling the pinch. And a drought is not going to improve matters. What will happen to the poor people? Those who don't have money to buy grains at exhorbitant prices? And then we have strikes that deprive the daily wage earner even the means of earning his daily bread. What's happening to this country? The picture is so depressing. Politicans are giving themselves bigger salaries and perks and precious little is being done for the poor people in the slums, on the streets and in the villages. Food rots in warehouses or out in the open while children cry themselves to sleep while we get ready to host the CWG and show the world how much we have progressed.

But this is not the forum for my personal frustration. So let me not digress. I meant to write about the project. Not that there's much to say. All goes well. Bhola was, however, supposed to be in Bolpur today. He was supposed to be here yesterday, in fact. He was bringing his wife to Siuri for a check up at the hospital and so I asked him to drive the extra few kilometres to come and see me. Since his in-laws were coming, he would be free and was probably grateful for the excuse to get away while all the tests, etc. were being conducted.

But yesterday was the strike against rising prices. You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out that the strike caused a lot of hardship to the common man. Besides, once again depriving the poor a chance to earn their daily wage. But how can you convince these pro-poor politicians that they've got it all wrong? Most of them have grown old advocating strikes at the drop of a hat. The most disruptive tool they had. So how can one expect them to change. But even more sickening is to have to watch yesterday's rable rouser, who called block roads and called strikes at the drop of a hat, now saying strikes are bad!

So Bhola did not come yesterday. And he did not come today because the doctor said he will not be able to see his wife till Saturday. Well, meanwhile, I have ample time to think of all the things that he should bring for me from the project -- a few books, some clothes, etc.

But when I spoke to Bhola this evening I forgot to share the sad news that Eri is not coming in the beginning of October as she can't get a visa because she's applying from the UK. Apparently she needs to have at least six months stay left on her UK visa before the Indian High Commission will grant her a visa. What's the logic? God alone knows perhaps. I'm sure those high paid bureaucrats in the foreign office don't have a clue. Their motto: "Ours is not to question why... Ours is but to do or... " Die, they won't. Eri though she'd visit India on her way back to Japan. Makes logical sense. But bureaucracy and logic don't go hand in hand. So, no volunteer to teach English in the first half of October.

I am feeling guilty about not going to Roldih and doing a bit of teaching. But I really don't wish to go and suffer in the heat. I think I've done enough and I feel that staying well at my age should probably be my top priority. Also, I do need to stay put in Bolpur. I moved here in July and was in and out the whole month. It's only in August, when I stayed static, that I managed to get to know a bit about this city and meet some of the people. I know it sounds like an excuse, even to me. But honestly, I just don't feel like going to the project at the moment. What I really want to do is get on my mobike and head into the sunset with my camera clicking away. I wish I had the courage!

Monday, September 6, 2010

Is the Weather Improving?

Fran, Hannah and Kaori left Roldih on Saturday. I spoke to them briefly before they left. They seemed ok. I got the impression they weren't too sad to leave. Or have I become used to more emotional farewells?

Actually, I haven't been able to establish much rapport with the last few volunteers. I haven't been on the project while Tom, Roisin, Fran, Hannah or Kaori were there. So there were no "chats" to get to know them better or to tell them about the project or my involvement in it. Also, they haven't seen me "inaction"? :) Hence, it's quite natural that they sould not feel emotional about saying goodbye to me or expressing their feeling about the project to me! But while Bhola kept on and on about how sad Tom and Roisin were about leaving the project and how much they cried (did they really?), he had nothing to say about the trio. In fact, when I called to enquire if he had put them on the bus to Kolkata, he was on his way back and was more keen to inform me that he would be going back to the project. I'm not keeping tabs on his attendance!

So there are no volunteers on the project now. It's time for me to fill in the blank! And it seems mother nature is trying to create the right conditions. It rained a bit yesterday after ages. And the sky is overcast right now. The sun was out in the morning. And no doubt, may even come out in a few minutes or hours. But if it's nice and cool, I certainly would feel more comfortable about going to Roldih. I'll give it a few more days to see how the weather behaves and then decide. Meanwhile, it's time to seriously explore possibilities of starting some work here.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Afraid to Brave the Heat

I should have been at Roldih last evening. At least that was the plan till yesterday. But my guests left just before noon instead of early morning and it so it got too late for me to leave Bolpur. I had no intentions of driving through the afternoon heat and arrive at the project after nightfall.

I did mull with the thought of leaving early this morning. But realized that I'd probably reach the project a few minutes before Fran, Hannah and Kaori would the project. And since the idea of going to the project was to meet them and discuss their stay on the project, a late arrival with a few minutes to spare, would be a waste of effort. So I stayed back. Tomorrow is a holiday on the project and I'd be just hanging around. Might as well hang around in Bolpur where I many things to occupy my mind.

I will be going to Roldih one of these days. But now that the urgency to go and meet the volunteers there is no longer a driving imperative, I will probably go a few days later and hopefully the weather too will have improved by then. It's simply too hot these days. In fact, I wouldn't be exaggerating if I say that Bolpur was cooler when I arrive in July than today, when we are already in the autum months. The rains have completely failed this region this year.

When you drive out, you do see green paddy fields. But that's because in West Bengal many farmers have tubewells for irrigation. Cross over into Jharkhand and except for isolated patches of green, the land is lying fallow. It's going to be a miserable year for farmers for sure. It's really been a bad year... rains where you don't need it... floods where you don't expect rain... and no rain where everything depends on it.

Anyway, succinctly put. It's too damn hot to go on a 5-hour drive at my age. I'll wait for it to get cooler. No point killing myself when the need for me at the project isn't so desperate. But I am desperate for good weather. I keep waiting for the weather to improve so that I could explore my immediate surroundings. I've been bitten by the shutter bug and I want to take some photos. But given the heat and the humidity, venturing out is a daunting task. And I'm not that brave.